How To Work On A Wardrobe That Works
by Diana Gruenig
Dress For Success…you have heard it a thousand times, but what does it really mean? Success in dressing is really dressing appropriately for where you are going, what you are doing and who you are. Just as a tuxedo would not be the right look for a pool party, a ripped up pair of acid wash jeans is not the right look for the office’s casual Friday. Always dress for the job you want, not the job you have, and be prepared to meet the big boss or a new client at any moment.
So where does a professional person start in building the most useful and beneficial wardrobe? Start with core wardrobe pieces in quality fabrics. For men and women, core wardrobe pieces are one or two solid color suits and one or two textured or pinstripe suits. Three-button suits in light, tropical weight wool are ideal with a little Lycra thrown in to prevent wrinkling. One- and two-button suits are coming in for Spring 2008, but double-breasted suits are out of fashion for now.
Black, gray and brown suits have been taking the lead roll that navy used to play. Black suits are easy to accessorize with black shoes, belts, purses and briefcases. People with a fair complexion may find that a softer gray or brown suit will be kinder to their skin tone, avoiding the heavy, washed out look.
Once the solid suits are in the closet, add navy or black pinstripe suits. Thinner, closer together stripes create a vertical, long and lean look. Men and women can save time and money by opting for suit separates. Instead of buying a standard suit off the rack that usually requires tailoring, these jackets and pants are sold as separates. Since most individuals are out of proportion, you can buy each piece in the size that really fits. The pants are already hemmed and ready to wear. Suit separates are the perfect solution for unexpected job interviews, social engagements and funerals.
Women can also add straight, sleeveless sheath dresses underneath longer jackets or tailored blouses and skirts for office wear.
Every wardrobe needs tailored trousers in black, gray, navy, camel, brown and olive. Men and women can choose either pleated or flat-front pants. Pleated pants are more conservative, always have a cuff bottom and never really leave the fashion scene. Flat-front pants, with a smooth clean front and no cuff, are more slimming and fashionable. Visually, they take 20 pounds off of the wearer.
Separate blazers and sport coats can be added as wardrobe mixers. A great casual look for men is a dark navy blazer with charcoal or camel trousers. Women can mix in pinstripe, brightly colored or textured blazers with black, brown or gray pants.
Shirts and blouses can add individuality to a look. Men and women have two choices—full-cut or fitted shirts. Full-cut shirts are cut straight from the shoulder down and camouflage an expanding midsection while fitted shirts have tapered, vertical seams that hug a trim waist. Spread collars are better for fuller faces to add balance and show more of the tie knot. Pointed collars are more formal and work better for thinner faces. French cuff shirts that require cuff links or white collar and cuff shirts can be an opportunity to show off your personal style.
Tie wardrobes need to have yellow and red power ties and interesting stripes/patterns in other colors. Stripe ties can work with pinstripe shirts, but have to be bolder than the pinstripe. Paisleys are also a good choice for striped shirts, as long as the paisley has some of the shirt color. Forget tie tacks and tie bars, as each tie has a keeper in the back to hold the tail and keep it from showing.
Women can also find straight-cut or waist-defining princess seam blouses. Scoop neck sleeveless sweaters or stretch knit tops are also great choices to add variety. Cleavage should never show in a work environment.
Overscheduled and don’t have a lot of time to devote to building a wardrobe? Personal shoppers can be a great asset in building a wardrobe that works. They can take a closet inventory at your home and suggest pieces to create new outfits while utilizing older items. They are experts in fashion, design and fabrication and they will shop sales to get the most for your money. Utilizing their talents, adding just a few items can round out a wardrobe and make it useful, beneficial and appropriate.
Diana Gruenig is a personal shopper serving the Phoenix metro area. You can reach her at (480) 722-1770.
AZ CPA – December 2007
